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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2018  with  funding  from 

University  of  Illinois  Urbana-Champaign  Alternates 


https://archive.org/details/manhiswardrobehiOOmars 


MAN 

AND  HIS  WARDROBE 


AN  HISTORICAL 
IMPRESSION 
OF  ATTIRE 


MARSHALL  FIELD  fe’ COMPANY 

THE  STORE  FOR  MEN 


STORE  FOR 
MEN 


zA  Separate  Store 
in  a  Separate  Building 


(Across  IVashin^ton  Street 
the  CMain  Store 


rom 


Cof^yright,  1920.  Marshall  Field  Cy  Company^ 


I 


Foreword 


^®)i.  \ 


WHAT  men  were  and  what  men  did  in  all' 
the  ages  have  been  reflected  in  the  apparel 
they  wore.  The  stateliness  of  Julius  Caesar 
sweeps  in  the  folds  of  his  robe;  the  courtliness  of 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh  flashes  from  his  attire;  the 
blunt  determination  of  Napoleon  is  symbolized  in 
his  cocked  hat;  the  simple  earnestness  of  Benjamin 
Franklin  lives  for  us  in  the  pictures  of  his  garb. 
Darwin  might  have  based  a  chapter  on  evolution 
upon  the  way  modern  clothing  retains  vestiges 
of  ancient  raiment.  The  buttons  on  the  back  of 
a  dress  coat,  the  little  bow  inside  a  hat — these 
persist,  though  the  usefulness  they  once  had  is 
forgotten. 

The  character  and  manner  of  man  today  speak 
in  his  clothes,  just  as  surely  as  they  did  a  century 
or  fifty  centuries  ago.  In  the  years  to  come  cloth¬ 
ing  of  today  will  add  its  page  to  history. 

Th  is  field  of  expression  is  unlimited,  and  conse¬ 
quently  the  search  for  a  certain  correctness, 
appropriateness,  and  quality,  governs  the  man 
seeking  the  right  thing. 

It  is  this  need  for  personal  guidance  that  The  Store 
for  Men  fills,  with  a  sales  organization  competent 
to  advise  in  the  matter  of  personal  fitness. 

Mars/iall  field  Ir  C.ompuuy  —  The  Store  for  Men 


74548i.- 


The  vian  of  the  early  middle 
age  had  little  choice  of  dress, 
lie  wore  a  tunic,  close-fitting 
or  loose,  and  simple  in  design 


Later  there  was  a  coal;  the 
sleeves  hung  over  the  hands 
by  quite  a  yard  and  had  eni- 
broiderv  both  inside  and  out. 


The  picturesque  surcoat  with 
its  heraldic  device  was  worn 
over  a  garment  with  flowing 
sleeves  of  another  color 


The  fashions  of  1550  have 
survive.!  for  us  in  the  play¬ 
ing  cards  of  today.  They 
were  the  clothing  of  nobility 


Tfe4t«;  ■  UUi 


i 


Suits — Past  and  Present 

The  easy  fitting  modern  coat  dates  from  the  reign  of 
Charles  II,  who  came  into  court  one  day  declaring  he 
was  weary  of  the  constant  changes  of  fashion,  and  that  hence¬ 
forth  he  would  wear  a  coat  and  vest. 

Many  a  man  thinks  he  is  now  free  from  fashion’s  enslaving, 
but  practically  every  article  of  clothing  he  wears  is  the  vestige 
of  some  ancient  “dandyism.”  The  nick  in  the  coat  collar,  the 
buttons  on  the  cuffs  and  the  side  pockets  are  examples. 

The  choosing  of  clothes  was  once  a  rather  momentous  task. 
Well-dressed  men  of  the  Colonies  were  forced  to  write  to 
their  tailors  across  the  Atlantic  to  inquire  about  the  colors 
and  stuffs  worn  by  the  fashionable  world. 

Today  the  selection  of  a  Suit  is  a  simple  matter;  and  fast 
diminishing  in  number  are  the  men  who  believe  they  cannot 
be  fitted  or  satisfied  unless  their  Suits  are  custom  made. 

To  produce  better  clothes  than  had  ever  been  produced  before, 
a  list  of  over  forty  specifications  was  devised  by  our  clothing 
specialists  for  use  in  the  making  of  our  Suits. 

Each  specification  bears  a  relation  to  the  refinement,  integrity 
and  perfection  of  our  Suits;  it  is  the  most  rigid  code  demanded 
in  the  clothing  industry.  Individuality  and  quality  are  indel¬ 
ibly  stamped  on  these  Suits — they  speak  for  themselves. 

Only  the  prestige  of  this  organization  can  make  it  worth 
while  for  a  manufacturer  to  revolutionize  the  standard  methods 
of  a  great  factory  in  order  to  meet  special  requirements. 

^larshall  Field  if  Company  —  The  Store  for  Men 


.1  high  collar  and  broad,  flat 
lapel  made  necessary  a  large 
nick.  Proportions  change, 
but  the  nick  still  remains 


c* 


The  ragged  Swiss  beat  the 
Due  of  Burgundy,  and  cut 
up  his  silk  tent  to  patch  their 
clothes.  Hence  slashed  clothes 


Rich  and  costly  materials 
were  protected  by  buttoning 
back  the  sleeves.  From  this 
originated  buttons  on  sleeves 


The  most  elaborate  period — 
the  beribboned  man  of  1660! 
Ribbons  on  his  hat,  head, 
neck,  arms,  legs  and  shoes! 


To  Beau  Brummell,  the 
“master  dandy  of  his  age," 
may  be  traced  many  of  our 
best  forms  of  modern  clothes 


S 


In  1100  man  s  cloak  was  a 
semi-circular  affair  fastened 
cither  in  front  or  on  his  right 
shoulder 


Later  his  cloak  took  on 
sleeves  which,  fashion  making 
too  long,  were  slit  to  release 
the  hands 


“The  clouds  of  the  middle 
ages  were  dispersed  and  the 
sun  shone.  Costume  was  dig¬ 
nified  and  magnificent” 


In  153d  the  town  London  was 
full  of  Spaniards  come  over 
with  Philip,  who  introduced 
the  short  cape 


The  Geography  of  Overcoatings 

WHETHER  imported  or  domestic,  a  good  Overcoat 
finds  itself  often  indebted  to  British  sources  for  name, 
pattern  or  weave. 

Great  Britain’s  trail  leads  through  the  whole  gamut  of  men’s 
garments.  Its  fields  and  meadows,  its  moors  and  highlands, 
seas  and  rivers  —  its  flora  and  fauna  —  all  have  enriched  our 
language  with  words  of  sartorial  significance. 

Tweed,  the  river;  Cheviot,  the  hills;  Shetland  and  Orkney, 
islands;  Worstead,  the  cloth  center;  Inverness,  Melton,  New¬ 
market,  towns  in  Scotland  and  England;  Oxford,  Cambridge 
and  Eton,  college  communities;  Norfolk,  a  county;  and  fa¬ 
mous  personages — Lord  Chesterfield,  Prince  Albert  and  Lord 
Raglan — all  these  have  put  their  stamp  on  the  clothing  indus¬ 
tries  of  the  English-speaking  world. 

All  through  the  range  of  patterns  of  Scotch  homespuns  may 
be  felt  the  influence  of  local  color  upon  the  designers  and 
weavers — the  speckled  textures  of  granite,  the  heather  mixtures, 
browns  of  the  Autumn  landscapes  and  tail  feathers  of  game 
birds  are  but  a  few. 

H  owever,  there  is  far  more  to  a  good  Overcoat  than  merely 
the  use  of  fine  woolens.  American  methods  and  workman¬ 
ship  have  developed  the  industry  of  clothesmaking  into  a 
science  of  no  minor  degree.  And  supplementing  this  Ameri¬ 
can  industry  is  an  organization  of  specialists  who  represent 
this  Store — men  who  know  clothing  from  the  customer’s  view¬ 
point  as  well  as  from  the  manufacturer’s;  men  who  supervise, 
suggest,  direct  and  improve  the  tailoring  and  style  that  go 
into  our  Overcoats. 

Marshall  Field  iy  Company  —  The  Store  for  Men 


The  extreme  plainness  of  the 
Cromwellian  Period  ap¬ 
peared  in  the  overcoat  cut 
long,  full  and  sleeveless 


If  'itli  the  return  of  the  Stuarts 
came  a  return  of  ribbons,  wig 
and  tight-buttoned  coat,  the 
ancestor  of  our  {rock  coal 


Thackeray  pictures  the  beau  in 
brilliant  coat  with  wide  cuff, 
full  skirt  and  gold  lace  during 
the  time  of  George  I 


7 


The  faslening  vf  the  jhirt  has 
varied  Utile  since  the  time  oj 
Henry  II — when  it  was  but¬ 
toned  zvith  small  gold  studs 


Linen  shirts  were  worn  as 
early  as  the  10th  century. 
JVearing  a  woolen  shirt  was 
enjoined  as  a  severe  penance 


Once  linen  was  so  costly  that 
only  the  zvell-to-do  could  wear 
it,  so  they  cut  away  garments 
to  bring  the  shirt  into  viezv 


Slubbes  wrote:  "The  shirts 
are  either  cambric,  Holland 
or  lawn;  and,  which  is  hor¬ 
rible  to  hear,  cost  ten  pounds:” 


In  1620,  religious  subjects 
were  represented  on  the  shirts 
both  in  lace  and  cut  work  and 
embroidery 


8 


As  to  Collars  and  Shirts 

OUR  present  Collar  is  quite  a  modest  affair  compared  with 
some  of  its  forerunners,  as  history  goes. 

As  early  as  1540  French  gentlemen  wore  linen  ruffs  or  frills, 
adopting  the  idea  from  the  Spanish.  Soon  after  the  style  was 
taken  up  in  England.  By  the  time  of  Elizabeth’s  reign  it  had 
reached  the  extreme  stage;  a  ruff  at  that  time  contained  as 
much  as  eighteen  yards  of  sheer  linen,  with  a  width  of  nine 
inches. 

The  Shirt  of  today  also  has  its  pedigree.  It  seems  to  be  the  out¬ 
growth  of  the  tunic,  although  in  the  time  of  Charles  I  the  tunic 
took  the  place  of  our  present-day  undergarments  and  coat,  as 
well  as  the  Shirt. 

For  many  years  linen  was  the  popular  material  for  the  body  of 
a  Shirt,  but  a  score  of  years  before  our  civil  war  a  pronounced 
preference  for  cotton  was  shown.  This  quickly  supplanted 
linen.  White  Shirts  remained  the  vogue  for  years;  it  was  not 
until  1892  that  colored  Shirts  caught  popular  fancy. 

As  simple  as  the  process  of  making  a  Shirt  seems,  there  are 
scores  of  distinct  operations  by  as  many  different  workers.  It 
is  calculated  that  in  the  making  of  one  Shirt  about  20,000 
stitches  are  taken.  The  care  with  which  Marshall  Field  & 
Company  Shirts  are  made  makes  them  the  equal  of  many  cus¬ 
tom-made  garments.  In  addition  to  obtaining  the  best  prod¬ 
ucts  from  the  best  manufacturers  we  have  established  our  own 
workrooms,  where  thousands  of  Shirts  are  made  every  year. 

Marshall  Field  iy  Company  —  The  Store  for  Men 


In  Elizabeth’s  time  the  ruff 
teas  so  large  it  required  18 
yards  of  linen.  It  zvas 
starched  in  various  colors 


In  Spain  came  the  first  ap¬ 
pearance  of  the  ruff,  very  neat 
and  small.  It  was  brought 
over  to  London  by  Philip 


Succeeding  the  ruff  came  the 
standing  band — a  collar, 
often  wired — -which  stood  up 
behind  the  ears 


Charles  I  introduced  the  fall¬ 
ing  band,  or  J'andyck  collar. 
Bands  were  kept  in  a  box, 
hence  the  ^’band-box” 


This  band  continued  to  be 
worn  until  the  great  wig  hid 
it  and  the  flowing  ends  in 
Jront  alone  were  visible 


9 


From  the  cockjcomh,  it  was 
but  a  step  to  the  cockade, 
held  in  great  favor  by  royalty 
and  gentlemen 


Hunting  hats  had  an  inside 
buffer  laced  with  a  narrow 
ribbon,  the  ancestor  of  the 
small  bozv  in  the  modern  hat 


This  inspired  some  fashion¬ 
able  dandy  to  twist  the  whole 
chaperon  around  the  head 
and  tie  it  zvith  the  liripipe 


The  chaperon,  a  cap  and 
cape  combined,  had  a  peak 
tvhich  was  lengthened  to  form 
zvhaf  teas  called  the  liripipe 


The  new  arrangement  made 
the  jagged  edges  stick  out  on 
one  side  like  a  cock's  comb — 
thus  our  zi'ord  coxcomb 


Fine  Hats,  Then — and  Now 

Real  ancient  man  went  bareheaded.  Up  to  fifty  or  sixty 
.  centuries  ago  man  either  depended  on  his  hair,  or  pulled 
his  cloak  over  his  head.  But  separate  head  coverings  came 
into  vogue  somewhere  about  3500  B.  C.,  and  styles  changed 
right  along  until  in  1400  a  beau  appeared  in  Paris  wearing 
what  could  be  called  a  modern  Hat;  it  was  made  of  fur. 

Before  present-day  methods  came  into  play  a  good  Hat  was 
very  expensive,  and  valued  enough  to  be  left  among  bequests 
in  a  will.  Those  having  important  social  engagements  frequently 
borrowed  or  hired  their  Hats. 

In  recent  times  American  enterprise  and  inventiveness  have 
brought  the  cost  down  in  a  remarkable  degree. 

The  process  of  making  good  felt  or  stiff  Hats  is  such  an 
involved  one  that,  once  observed,  the  spectator  realizes  what 
a  prized  article  a  good  Hat  should  be.  It  involves  the  use  of 
the  best  parts  of  the  fur  of  beaver,  nutria,  hare  and  coney. 
The  processes  carry  the  furs  through  numerous  hands  and 
manipulations  —  from  the  cleansing,  assorting  and  blending 
and  the  first  crude  shaping,  through  the  kneading,  dyeing, 
stiffening,  blocking  and  curling  —  to  the  finishing,  each  step 
requiring  precision  and  care. 

The  immensity  of  the  industry  may  be  indicated  by  the  fact 
that  in  one  prominent  factory  alone  5,000  workers  handle 
each  year  12,000,000  fur  skins,  producing  3,000,000  Hats. 

In  Marshall  Field  &  Company  Hats  numerous  refinements 
have  been  incorporated  into  our  specifications  to  manufac¬ 
turers.  We  insist  on  the  best  Hats  that  can  be  produced — the 
hitrhest  quality  at  a  given  price. 

Marshal/  fu’ld  is  Company — 'I'hr  Store  for  Mm 


In  the  reign  of  Henry  Jill 
the  ancient  cap  acquired  a 
hrini 


It  'was  heliez'cd  that  a  heaver 
hat  'would  "unjeignedly  re¬ 
cover  to  a  man  his  hearing 
and  stimulate  his  memory” 


Hats  'were  once  worn  indoors, 
at  table  and  in  church,  as  an 
e  m  hi r  m  of  d i g  n  i I  y  a  n  d 
authority 


In  George  ll's  time  a  man 
had  a  hat  for  carrying  only — 
he  would  not  ruffle  his  wig! 


The  Duke  oj  Bucki  n  gha  m 
wore  in  his  hat  a  diamond, 
the  finest  in  all  England 


11 


The  word  cravat  is  derived 
from  the  “Cravantes,”  who 
in  163(1  wore  a  frill  of  lace 
where  the  neck  hand  was  tied 


The  loosely  tied  Steenkirk 
was  named  after  a  battle 
where  French  princes,  rush¬ 
ing  into  action,  hurriedly 
twisted  their  lace  cravats 


J  nother  form  of  the  Steenkirk 
was  a  black  silk  tie,  knotted 
or  fastened  loosely  with  the 
ends  hanging 


Some  men  wore  frills  of 
point  lace,  but  they  were  so 
costly  that  a  man  seldom 
owned  more  than  two 


The  coat  in  George  ITs  time 
was  cut  open  in  front  to  show 
to  advantage  the  cravat  and 
waistcoat 


12 


iUiLliu 


How  the  Cravat  Began 

IN  1636  a  regiment  of  “Cravantes,”  or  Croatian  soldiers, 
arrived  in  Paris  for  military  duty.  In  their  dress  one  feature 
was  much  admired  by  the  Parisians  —  a  brightly  colored  neck 
wrapper  tied  in  a  bow.  They  immediately  adopted  the  idea 
for  themselves,  and  to  them  we  are  indebted  for  the  word 
“Cravat.” 

Quite  the  most  interesting  thing  about  the  Cravat  is  the 
strange  origin  of  many  of  the  patterns. 

The  Rose  Window  of  the  ill-fated  cathedral  of  Rheims  has 
been  the  inspiration  of  a  pattern.  Then  there  are  the  motifs 
taken  from  the  antique  Bacchanalian  Vase,  and  from  the  an¬ 
tique  mosaic  in  the  museum  of  the  Vatican;  reproductions  of 
Bobbin  Lace  (Italian  Genoese),  and  needle  point  lace  (Spanish), 
from  the  seventeenth  century;  a  design  from  a  door  panel  in 
the  boudoir  of  Marie  Antoinette. 

These  are  but  glimpses  of  the  thousands  of  interesting  stories 
of  past  centuries  that  are  told  in  Neckwear  patterns. 

As  one  of  the  decorative  and  one  of  the  most  conspicuous 
parts  of  a  man’s  apparel,  the  Cravat  is  of  considerable  impor¬ 
tance.  And  just  as  important  as  its  appearance  is  its  quality. 
The  constant  strain  of  knotting  and  pulling  is  more  severe 
treatment  than  is  given  any  other  article  of  apparel. 

Our  specialists  safeguard  the  quality  of  Neckwear,  from  the 
choosing  of  dependable  silks,  and  the  supervision  of  making, 
to  the  finishing.  They  search  far  and  wide  for  the  most  dis¬ 
tinctive  of  patterns.  They  offer  you  Cravats  that  have  Marshall 
Field  &  Company  character. 

Marshal!  Field  y  (Company  —  The  Store  for  Men 


The  aim  of  the  Incroyahles 
was  extremity  of  dress.  They 
chose  the  highest  collars,  the 
biggest  pufed  cravats 


M.  I.e  Blanc  issued  a  manual 
upon  the  art  of  tying  the 
cravat.  There  were  two  and 
thirty  different  styles 

In  the  next  reign  the  cravat 
was  loosely  tied  and  the 
frilled  ends  stuck  out 


//  hen  the  muslin  cravat  came 
in,  the  shirt  collars  rose  and 
the  ruffles  down  the  front  van¬ 
ished 


B  e  a  u  B  r  u  m  m  eir  s  gre  at 
achievement  was  the  cravat 
tie.  It  was  slightly  starched 
and  three  were  worn  each  day 


13 


l.arly  shots  preserved  to  vs 
deep  in  the  soil  of  ancient 
London  show  great  art  and 
skill 


Shoes  were  of  great  length  and 
were  of  every  material;  some 
sewn  with  pe'arls  on  cloth  cf 
velvet 


The  fifteenth  century  shoes 
were  so  long  that  they  required 
stuffing,  and  zvere  fastened 
to  the  knee  kv  a  chain 


Boots  of  Henry  J’ I  had 
somewhat  the  character  of 
gaiters.  The  buttons  were 
made  of  finely  plaited  thread 


The  right  shoe  curved  out¬ 
ward,  the  left  shoe  inward, 
causing  the  wearer  to  appear 
splay-footed 


For  walking  in  the  streets, 
clogs  were  used,  made  with 
long  pointed  ends  to  support 
the  shoes 


14 


The  fifteenth  century 
U'nre  bright  red  hoots  oj  h 
ish  leather  turned  over  i 
top 


Footprints  of  Time 

IT  is  a  far  cry  from  the  time  when  primeval  Man,  barefooted, 
fought  with  the  brambles  and  loose  stones  as  he  pursued 
y^ame  for  food,  to  today,  when  foot-covering  is  trim  and  smart 
as  well  as  efficient. 

From  the  grass-plaited,  crude  covering  to  the  sandals  of  the 
Orient;  and  from  the  Roman  boot  to  the  brogans  of  early 
England,  down  to  the  period  when  for  the  first  time  the  hides 
of  animals  began  to  serve,  the  ingenuity  of  man  has  been  taxed 
in  evolving  serviceable  protection  for  feet  and  ankles. 

In  Shoes  of  medieval  times  which  have  been  excavated  in  the 
streets  of  old  London,  there  is  unmistakable  evidence  of  stand¬ 
ard  of  skill  and  art  in  the  footwear  of  the  citizens.  That  they 
were  not  unmindful  of  comfort  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  cork 
soles  were  much  in  use. 

In  the  making  of  Shoes  today  there  are  many  standards.  The 
standards  on  which  Shoes  are  made  for  Marshall  Field  & 
Company  have  been  evolved  from  an  intimate  contact  with 
the  public  which  revealed  the  desires  and  needs  of  the  human 
foot,  and  a  close  study  of  materials  and  methods  of  manu¬ 
facturers. 

Out  of  this  first-hand  knowledge  has  been  born  a  tireless  effort 
to  put  into  Shoes  those  qualities  that  mean  service,  comfort 
and  style.  Our  specifications  to  manufacturers  are  aimed  to 
attain  these  excellences,  and  that  they  succeed  is  proved  by 
the  fact  that  our  Shoe  business  has  developed  into  the  largest 
retail  business  of  the  country,  if  not  of  the  world. 

Alarshall  Field  Coinpanv  —  The  Store  for  Men 


.It  this  time,  too,  blunt  shoes 
came  into  fashion  and  the 
long  peaked  shoes  passed  out 


'The  dandy  took  pride  in 
turning  down  the  top  op  his 
boot  to  display  the  lace  or  silk 
lining 


Shoes  of  the  seventeenth  cen¬ 
tury  had  two-inch  wooden 
heels  covered  with  crimron 
leather 


•le  hundred  years  later  gen- 
men  zvore  an  elegant  shoe 
ill  a  heel  fully  six  inches 


15 


./  little  later  men  chose  tight- 
fitting  hose,  parti-colored,  or 
of  two  colors,  one  to  each  leg 


The  sturdy  man  of  the  elev¬ 
enth  century  wore  woolen 
socks  gartered  from  ankle  to 
knee 


In  the  sixteenth  century  hose 
became  puffed  at  the  knees 
and  slashed,  the  forerunner 
of  the  separate  breeches 


The  successful  appearance  oj 
the  beau  s  costume  depended 
largely  upon  the  fit  of  his  hose 


In  Shakespeare’ s  time,  stock¬ 
ings  were  of  yarn,  silk  or 
wool,  and  were  often  clocked 
at  the  ankles. 


Man’s  Leg  Coverings 

SINCE  men  first  migrated  from  the  Orient  to  colder  tem¬ 
perature  they  have  covered  their  legs  in  a  multitude  of  ways. 
Originally  devised  for  comfort,  stockings  became  a  means  of 
adornment;  and  the  progress  of  civilization  reveals  many  curi¬ 
ous  incidents  of  their  development. 

Stockings  were  prominent  in  the  portraits  of  sixteenth  century 
cavaliers  and  of  the  early  American  colonists.  Men  were  so 
proud  of  their  legs  that  full  length  portraits  were  the  rule  in 
order  that  silken  stockings  might  come  in  for  their  share  of 
glory.  That  old  satirist  Stubbs  wrote  in  1595:  “A  pair  of 
man’s  silk  stockings  will  cost  more  than  a  coat  on  his  back 
three  times.” 

Knitting  was  a  fine  art  then  as  it  is  now,  but  modern  ingenu¬ 
ity  has  simplified  the  process  and  greatly  lessened  the  cost. 
According  to  tradition  the  story  of  knitting  begins  in  the 
early  centuries  of  European  civilization,  when  inhabitants  of 
the  Scottish  lowlands  spent  their  time  during  the  winter  work¬ 
ing  various  designs  in  straw,  hay,  plant  stems  and  wool.  This 
practice  led  to  the  discovery  of  hand  knitting,  which  art  quick¬ 
ly  spread  to  England. 

The  fi  rst  Hosiery  to  be  knitted  by  machine  dates  back  to 
1589,  but  not  until  1825  was  a  knitting  mill  established  in 
America.  From  this  beginning  have  sprung  the  great  Hosiery 
mills  of  today. 

In  The  Store  for  Men  the  greatest  care  is  exercised  to  obtain 
only  the  cream  of  the  productions  of  the  most  reliable  manu¬ 
facturers.  At  any  given  price  the  quality  will  be  found  the 
best  of  its  class. 

Marshall  Field  Id  C.umpany  —  The  Store  jor  Men 


A  vian  with  shapely  legs 
discarded  garters  and  de¬ 
pended  upon  the  fit  of  his 
stockings  to  keep  them  in  place 


Jf  hen  Ireeehes  were  short, 
stockings  were  worn  all  the 
way  up  the  leg  and  were  called 
trunk-hose  and  trunks 


His  less  fortunate  brother  had 
to  pad  his  hose  to  appear  in 
favor  in  the  prevailing 
fashio  n 


Hose  at  this  time  were  a  very 
important  article  in  men’ s 
dress.  Boots  were  not  gener¬ 
ally  worn  except  for  riding 


In  the  late  seventeenth  cen¬ 
tury  delicately  colored  silk 
stockings  zverr  in  full  evidence 


Men  indulged  in  jewelled 
gloves.  They  wore  them  on 
state  occasions  and  be- 
qvrothed  them  in  their  wills 


Henry  HI  wore  a  pair  oj 
brown  Spanish  leather  gloves, 
lined  with  deerskin  and 
reaching  nearly  to  the  elbow 


C, loves  of  perjurned  material 
were  worn  in  Queen  Eliza¬ 
beth’s  reign.  Their  prepara¬ 
tion  required  great  skill 


In  the  picturesque  hunting 
parties  special  gauntlets  pro¬ 
tected  the  pages’  hands  from 
the  sharp  claivs  of  the  falcon 


Henry  I  Ill’s  glove,  of  buff 
leather  lined  with  rose  silk, 
trimmed  with  gold  lace,  was 
beautiful  beyond  compare 


Giving  the  Glove  Its  Due 

Far  from  being  the  humble  member  of  our  wardrobe  we 
may  have  supposed  Gloves  to  be,  they  are  of  exceedingly 
ancient  lineage  and  have  retained  much  of  their  original  regal 
and  aristocratic  character.  The  first  mention  of  them  in  litera¬ 
ture  is  to  be  found  in  the  Bible. 

But  scientists  believe  we  should  go  back  still  further,  for, 
among  preglacial  relics,  an  unmistakable  drawing  of  a  Glove 
rudely  etched  upon  a  stone  was  discovered.  That  harks  back 
before  the  ice  age,  which  began  about  240,000  years  ago  and 
ended  somewhat  over  80,000  years  since.  So  here  is  an  an¬ 
tiquity  for  Gloves  which  is  exceptionally  interesting. 

Gloves  have  deeply  affected  the  lives  of  human  beings  from 
the  earliest  periods.  They  were  bequeathed  to  us  by  the  princely 
prelates,  the  kings  and  overlords  of  the  past,  whose  chief  in¬ 
signia  and  treasured  badge  of  honor  was  the  Glove. 

The  fi  rst  skilled  Glove-makers  are  said  to  have  been  monks  of 
the  early  middle  ages.  As  early  as  790  Charlemagne  granted 
to  the  abbots  and  monks  of  Sithin,  in  ancient  France,  un¬ 
limited  right  of  hunting  the  deer  for  skins  of  which  to  make 
Gloves.  In  France,  Glove-making  as  an  industry  was  well 
established  in  the  twelfth  century. 

Today  our  Glove  specialists  present  the  accumulated  knowl¬ 
edge  and  choicest  products  of  this  century-old  industry — 
choosing  here,  rejecting  there,  from  the  riches  and  skill  of  the 
Orient,  of  Africa,  of  Europe  and  of  the  Western  World. 

Marshall  Field  IF  Company  —  The  Store  for  Men 


1 


Shakespeare  u'ore  a  pair  of 
fine  leather  gloves  beautifully 
\  embroidered  and  edged  zc-itk 
i  varrozo  tinsel  fringe 


He  employed  the  glove  as  an 
emblem  in  his  plays,  as  a  love 
token  or  a  sign  of  defiance 


The  severely  plain  glove  with 
wide  fringe  worn  by  Oliver 
Cromwell  suggests  the  stern 
character  of  its  owner 


Seventeenth  century  gloves 
were  most  elaborate  with  slitch- 
tngof  gold  thread  and  quaintly 
embroidered  '‘points” 


.It  this  time  men  c.rrried  the 
muff  for  a  hand-covering  in 
addition  to  the  glove 


In  thr’  13th  and  14th  centu¬ 
ries  men  tvore  an  inner  tunic 
called  a  '"chemise”  under  thr 
outer  tunic,  called  the”cotte” 


The  shirt  or  carnise  of  the 
Saxons  began  under  the  Nor¬ 
mans  to  he  decorated  with  em¬ 
broidery 


Although  wool  was  the  staple 
trade  in  England,  woolen 
underclothing  was  practically 
unknown 


In  Elizabeth’s  reign  men 
wore  stays  beneath  the  stuffed 
doublet — attire  had  scarcely  a 
single  natural  outline 


20 


Underclothes  a  Comparatively  Recent  Idea 

IN  the  distant  past  little  was  known  of  Underwear.  The 
Elizabethan  period  reveals  reference  to  it  in  the  diary  of 
Samuel  Pepys:  “  .  .  .  a  new  black  cloth  suit  with  white  linings 
under  all  —  as  the  fashion  is — to  appear  under  the  breeches.” 
Which  may  or  may  not  be  the  beginning  of  the  vogue  for 
Undergarments. 

The  use  of  Underwear  probably  originated  through  an  awaken¬ 
ing  desire  to  avoid  the  excessive  use  of  outer  garments  for 
bodily  comfort.  It  was  not  long,  however,  before  Underwear 
became  an  indispensable  part  of  the  wardrobe. 

As  in  all  other  merchandise  the  difference  between  fine  and 
ordinary  Underwear  is  very  pronounced.  With  us,  strictest 
supervision  is  maintained  in  the  selection  of  the  best  raw  materi¬ 
als.  Australia  is  the  source  of  much  of  our  wool;  cotton  is 
collected  from  Peru,  Egypt  and  the  choicest  American  sources; 
silk  is  brought  from  Italy,  China  and  Japan.  Wool  is  pur¬ 
chased  in  the  fleece,  as  it  comes  from  the  sheep,  to  insure  the 
most  thorough  scouring  and  cleansing  before  combing  and 
spinning.  After  scouring,  it  is  dried  slowly  by  natural  air  proc¬ 
ess  rather  than  by  the  customary  hot  air  blast  system  which 
causes  brittle  yarn.  As  a  further  assurance  of  a  fine  soft  quali¬ 
ty  of  Undergarments,  whether  made  of  wool  or  cotton,  two 
features  are  important:  every  bit  of  wool  is  hand-sorted; 
cotton  is  blown  into  shreds  before  going  to  machine  pickers. 

All  this  is  the  result  of  a  painstaking  effort  to  offer  the 
customer  the  utmost  in  comfort  and  service. 

Marsl.all  Ftr’d  C.ompcivy  —  The  Store  far  Men 


(iradiiiilly  the  stiff  Jacobean 
dress  released  its  clutch  upon 
the  human  form.  H'halehones 
melted  array 


J 


Special  seats  were  put  in  the 
Houses  of  Parliament  for  the 
gentlemen  who  wore  the  very 
wide  padded  trunks 


.1  washing  list  that  belonged  to 
the  Duke  of  Rutland  included 
topps  (linen  boot-frill.r),  and 
half  shirts  (stomachers) 


Men  of  the  Tudor  and  Stuart 
periods  wore  quantities  of 
lace  even  on  their  underwear 


.hi  ancient  farm  of  the  hand¬ 
kerchief  was  merely  a  bit  of 
silk  tissue,  first  used  by 
priests  at  the  altar 


(ientlemen  did  wear  these  in 
their  hats  as  favors  of  their 
m  istr esses 


11  enry  /  111  used  “ handker- 
chers  of  Holland  fringed  with 
I'enice  gold,  red  and  zchite 
silk  and  some  of  Flanders 
worke"  , 


In  the  course  of  time  ladies 
of  the  French  and  English 
courts  began  to  carry  similar 
squares  of  silk 


Handkerchiefs  of  lace  or  of 
silk  richly  embroidered  were 
carried  by  men  in  the  reign 
of  Elizabeth 


22 


Tracing  the  Handkerchief  Career 

The  origin  of  the  Handkerchief  is  buried,  with  so  many 
other  things,  in  antiquity.  Quite  likely  it  was  suggested  by 
the  napkin,  which  had  been  in  general  use  at  Egyptian  and 
Roman  feasts.  The  early  kerchief  performed  a  lowly  function, 
but  as  its  use  became  general  it  found  vogue  as  feminine  dec¬ 
oration  for  neck  and  shoulders.  From  this  it  was  inevitable 
that  it  should  become  an  article  subject  to  the  distinction  of 
fine  needlework  and  other  decorative  handicraft. 

To  man,  the  Handkerchief  has  been  a  thing  of  utility  rather 
than  vanity;  yet  he,  too,  has  been  compelled  to  bend  a  little, 
till  now  his  Handkerchief  bears  ornamental  features  that  per¬ 
mit  him  to  reveal  it  peeping  out  of  the  upper  coat  pocket.  This 
display  is  not  something  new,  for  this  reference  is  found  at 
the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century:  “His  pockets,  low 
down  in  his  coat,  show  a  lace  kerchief  half  dropping  from  one 
of  them.” 

The  Handkerchief,  though  one  of  the  refinements  of  Roman 
civilization,  was  lost  with  many  other  refinements  in  the  later 
Middle  Ages.  It  began  to  return  to  general  use  in  polite 
society  only  about  the  time  of  Henry  the  Eighth’s  reign.  It 
was  often  employed  for  ceremonial  purposes  in  connection 
with  the  giving  of  presents — a  custom  growing  out  of  one 
practiced  long  before  in  Oriental  lands. 

Our  search  for  the  finest  Handkerchiefs  made  for  men  finds 
itself  justified  in  the  soft,  durable  ones  from  Ireland;  the  fine 
hand  spun  and  hand  woven  products  of  France;  the  silk  novel¬ 
ties  of  Japan. 

Marshall  Fifld  13  Compahy  —  The  Store  for  Men 


King  William  spent  large 
sums  on  lace  handkerchiefs 
that  matched  the  pattern  of 
his  lace  cravats 


'The  proud  dandy  of  the  17th 
century  was  most  careful  not 
to  thrust  his  lace  handkerchief 
into  the  bottom  of  his  pocket 


"Handkerchief  buttons”  was 
a  street  cry  in  (iharles  I’s 
time,  when  handkerchiefs 
had  ahuttoyi  on  each  corner 


An  ad  in  1672  read:  "Lost, 
a  lawn  handkercher  about  4 
fingers  broad,  lace  trimmed 
and  initialled  R  in  red  Silk” 


\ 


The  i m  mac ulate  handker¬ 
chief  has  through  all  periods 
been  the  mark  of  a  well- 
groomed  man 


23 


Pantaloons  and  gaiters  were 
made  all  in  one  in  ISIO, 
especially  when  of  nankeen, 
and  zvere  worn  in  full  dress 


If  hile  in  ISO?  nankeen 
breeches  with  silk  knee- 
strings  were  the  only  evening 
breeches 


On  full-dress  occasions  knee 
breeches  were  worn  Jorsoine 
years  after  trousers  were 
everywhere  seen  on  the  streets 


Beau  Brummell  always  wore 
a  blue  coat in  the  (veiling  with 
black  pantaloons  made  to  but¬ 
ton  dozen  to  the  ankle 


. 


Formal  Dress  Harks  Back 

IT  is  curious  that  the  custom  of  resurrecting  an  ancient 
fashion  for  ceremonial  clothes  has  been  followed  through 
the  ages.  Today,  when  we  dress  for  dinner,  we  go  back  nearly 
a  century  for  the  style  of  our  clothes. 

In  ceremonial  dress  there  were  those  of  the  Court,  Church, 
Law  and  University,  and  the  costumes  adopted  for  special 
ceremonies  by  various  institutions,  each  one  of  which  might 
be  considered  of  a  distinct  and  separate  class.  The  Formal 
Apparel  of  today  to  a  great  extent  substitutes  for  this  lavish 
variety  of  special  clothes. 

In  this  Store  the  showing  of  Formal  Apparel  is  given  the  sur¬ 
rounding  and  intimacy  it  deserves.  A  beautifully  furnished 
Evening  Dress  Room  permits  display  to  the  best  advantage. 

Well-dressed  men  as  a  rule  are  prepared  for  occasions  when 
Formal  Clothes  are  necessary.  But  there  are  some — men  of 
position,  too — who  require  Formal  Clothes  so  seldom  they 
feel  they  can  safely  pass  years  in  unpreparedness.  Yet  the  in¬ 
evitable  occasion  comes  when  they  must  wear  Formal  Clothes. 
Time  is  short — a  tailor  is  out  of  the  question.  Clothes  must 
be  bought  at  once,  ready  to  put  on.  And  they  must  be  abso¬ 
lutely  right,  equal  to  the  very  best  that  can  be  made.  Such 
emergencies  are  successfully  overcome  daily  in  the  Evening 
Dress  Room.  Here  a  man  can  find  his  exact  measurement  in 
garments  that  are  correct,  made  of  the  best  materials,  and  with 
the  highest  grade  of  workmanship  known  to  the  tailoring  art. 

Marshall  Ftrhl  b"'  Company  —  Tlie  Store  for  Men 


The  Macaroni,  fur  f  ull  dress, 
attired  himself  in  a  velvet  coat 
of  delicate  tint,  lined  with 
satin  or  ermine 


Men  in  suits  of  light  colored 
silk  brought  brilliance  a nd 
gayely  into  the  ballrooms  of 
George  I 


IIow  different  is  the  over¬ 
elaborate  dress  of  Charles  II 
Jrom  the  simple  elegance  of 
George  IV,  the  forerunner  of 
modern  full-dress! 


>--za6r 


.Ibout  I7S6  the  wide  skirts  of 
the  coats  were  transformed 
into  long  tails 


i 


//  statute  of  1457  prohibited 
golf  lest  it  interfere  with  the 
more  important  military  ac¬ 
complishment  ^  archery 


The  Clash  of  Prowess  and 
dignity  of  stakes  demanded 
caparisons  of  great  splendor 


The  Hunting  Horn,  an  em¬ 
blem  of  a  popular  sport  of  the 
past 


26 


Once  a  Business,  Now  a  Sport 

Sports  Apparel  had  its  origin  centuries  ago,  but  its  later 
forms  are  recent  products.  Garb  for  motor,  polo  and  avi¬ 
ation  of  course  meets  a  newer  form  of  man’s  diversions.  Hunt¬ 
ing  and  riding,  and  even  golf,  are  centuries  old. 

Strange,  is  it  not,  how  the  business  of  one  age  becomes  the 
play  of  another!  Men  hunted  for  centuries — but  for  food.  Men 
knew  well  how  to  ride — but  they  had  to;  there  was  little  other 
kind  of  transportation.  The  hard  work  of  the  savage  becomes 
the  amusement  of  civilization. 

Golf  is  the  national  game  of  the  Scots.  In  the  fifteenth  century 
it  was  so  popular  that  the  government  found  it  necessary  to 
formulate  repeated  statutes  against  it  as  unprofitable,  and  in¬ 
terfering  with  the  more  important  accomplishment — archery — 
thus  tending  to  impair  the  military  efficiency  of  the  people. 
But,  in  spite  of  this,  golf  still  retained  its  hold.  Golf,  then, 
seems  to  stand  alone  as  the  one  sport  which  has  lasted  through 
five  centuries  and  at  the  present  day  bids  fair  to  hold  first  place 
in  public  favor. 

The  outdoor  man  has  always  had  his  own  ideas  of  dress.  To¬ 
day,  in  our  Specialty  Clothing  Section,  he  finds  his  demands 
of  style  and  freedom  of  movement  carefully  complied  with; 
he  finds  Clothes  that  have  proved  from  actual  experience  to  be 
most  adaptable  in  character  as  well  as  material  for  his  partic¬ 
ular  branch  of  sport;  he  finds  a  distinctiveness,  a  variety  and 
a  standard  of  quality  which  are  impressive,  to  say  the  least. 

Marshall  Field  Company  —  The  Store  for  Men 


Such  was  the  popularity  of 
golf  that  men  of  the  16th  cen¬ 
tury  abandoned  their  meals 
and  played  by  lantern  light 


In  I62S  Lord  Montrose  ex¬ 
pended  ten  shillings  for  two 
golf  balls  and  a  further  pay¬ 
ment  “to  the  boy  who  carried 
my  Lord’s  clulbes” 


James  I  recommended  tennis 
as  a  sport  becoming  a  prince. 
Henry  I'll Fs  wardrobe  con¬ 
tained  tenes-cotes,  drawers 
and  slippers 


“O’er  crackling  ice  and  gulfs 
profound 

With  nimble  grace  the  skait- 
ers  play; 

O’er  treacherous  pleasure's 
jlow'ry  ground 

Thus  lightly  skim  and  haste 
away” 

Translation  from 
“L”  llyner—1872 


27 


In  the  early  da\s  of  EdzvurJ 
III,  servants  zvore  partt-cd- 
orcd  liveries  of  their  master's 
enters  to  distinguish  them 


A  fipteenth  century  observer 
might  well  stop  to  note  the 
smart  livery  of  the  fellow 
bearing  his  master's  swnrd 


Servants  of  the  Tudors  wore 
on  their  left  sleeve  the  badge 
cf  the  red  and  wh  t te  roses 
joined  together 


The  Indian-like  running 
footman  of  Queen  Anne’s 
time  carried  food  or  a  message 
in  the  knob  of  his  stick 


(ieorge  ll’ashinglon  for  many 
years  sent  to  London  for  ser¬ 
vants’  livery,  demanding  that 
each  article  be  fashionable 


28 


Liveries  Have  a  Pedigree 

^"^HROUGH  the  ages  the  costume  of  servants  proves  itself 
X  to  be  that  of  the  master  of  an  earlier  generation. 

Modern  coachmen  and  outdoor  footmen  wear  the  tall  hat,  the 
bright  buttons,  doeskin  breeches  and  the  top  boots  character¬ 
istic  of  the  outdoor  and  riding  dress  of  the  gentlemen  at  the 
beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century.  In  establishments  inclined 
to  more  ceremony,  footmen  wear  plush  breeches,  silk  stockings 
and  powdered  hair — the  dress  of  the  gentlemen  in  the  reign  of 
George  III. 

This  is  a  more  progressive  age,  it  seems.  The  man-servant 
who  attends  at  table  adopts  the  dress  of  his  employer  before 
the  master  has  even  discarded  it. 

Correctness  is  the  one  dominating  thought  in  the  choice  of 
Livery.  In  this  Store  a  service  is  available  which  assures 
authenticity  and  permits  any  family  emblem  or  combination 
of  colors  to  appear  throughout  the  servant’s  wardrobe.  We 
have  in  our  Specialty  Clothing  Section  a  complete  showing  of 
sample  Liveries  which  were  made  up  for  us  by  the  leading 
Livery  outfitter  of  England.  Styles  may  be  selected  from  these 
samples  and  the  garments  made  to  measure  in  our  own  work¬ 
rooms. 

Our  service  in  Chauffeurs’  Liveries  is  comprehensive.  Hun¬ 
dreds  of  yards  of  the  finest  whipcords  and  sharkskins  are  pur¬ 
chased  by  us  every  year,  tailored  in  our  workrooms  and  placed 
in  stock,  giving  a  variety  large  enough  to  meet  the  demands 
of  any  occasion.  In  addition  to  this  showing  in  Chauffeurs’ 
Liveries  ready  to  wear,  the  made-to-measure  service  is  available 
for  any  special  needs. 

Miirsluill  Field  ^  Company  —  The  Slore  Jor  Men 


Some  modern  foolmen  wear 
the  '‘pouter”  coat,  cut  away 
.<0  as  to  recall  the  wings  of  a 
pigeon,  which  dates  from  the 
reign  of  George  in 


i 


Lieery  was  most  pieniresi/ue 
during  the  time  of  George  III 
and  I F ,  reflecting  the  so'  ial 
station  of  the  master 


The  cockade  in  our  earlier 
times  gave  the  finishing  towh 
to  the  groom 


Coachmen  had  the  same  tall 
hat,  bright  buttons,  doeskin 
breeches  and  top  boots  as  the 
gentlemen  of  ISOO,  tending 
toward  modern  simplicity 


Tt 


‘Our  Tailors  know 
IIozv  best  to  set  apparel  out 
to  show. 

It  either  shall  be  gathered, 
stitcht  or  laced. 

Or  any  way  according  to 
your  taste.” 

“Satires”  George  Wither, 
1613. 


“Two  things  1  love ,  two 
usuall  things  they  are: 
The  I'lrste,  N ew-Jashioned 
cloaths  I  love  to  wear. 


The  Second  Thing  I  love  is 
this,  I  weene 

To  ride  ahoute  to  have  those 
\ew  Cloaths  see  re.” 


"I  am  resolved  to  go  hand¬ 
somer  than  I  have  hitherto, 
Jor  Clothes  I  perceive  more 
and  more  is  a  great  matter.” 
“Diarv,”  Samuel  Pepys, 
1664. 


30 


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At  One  Time  ^‘Customer  Made^’ 

The  phrase  “Custom-Made”  apparently  has  evolved  from 
the  jargon  of  early  English  tradesmen,  who  used  “cus¬ 
tomer  made,”  or  “customer  work,”  to  designate  especially  in¬ 
dividual  apparel. 

In  those  days,  when  invention  had  not  yet  turned  its  attention 
to  dress,  there  was  little  in  ready-to-wear  to  comfort  mankind. 
Garb  either  hung  loosely  wherever  placed,  or  was  carefully 
fitted  by  expert  craftsmen.  The  poor  resorted  to  one,  the 
wealthy  to  the  other. 

The  best  art  of  the  custom  tailor  of  the  past  generations  —  so 
far,  at  least,  as  men  of  average  proportions  are  concerned  — 
has  been  surpassed  by  the  scientific  manufacture  of  garments 
in  all  standard  sizes.  Custom  tailoring,  therefore,  to  be  done 
in  the  Marshall  Field  &  Company  way,  must  begin  where  the 
highest  grades  of  ready-to-wear  garments  leave  off — an  exceed¬ 
ingly  difficult  place  to  begin.  But  this  much  we  can  do:  We 
go  to  the  foremost  weavers  of  fine  woolen  cloths — chiefly  in 
England  and  Scotland — and  buy  enough  material  of  one  pat¬ 
tern  to  make  one  Suit,  selected  with  a  close  knowledge  of  the 
preferences  of  our  clientele.  We  secure  hundreds  of  excep¬ 
tional  patterns  that  are  not  duplicated  in  our  stock,  and  are 
not  otherwise  likely  to  reach  Chicago.  For  those  who  appre¬ 
ciate  absolute  exclusiveness,  we  make  up  these  patterns  in  ac¬ 
cordance  with  the  very  highest  standards  of  workmanship 
known  to  the  tailoring  craft.  Such  is  the  character  of  the 
service  The  Store  for  Men  offers  in  Suits,  Shirts,  and  Shoes 
made  to  measure. 

Marshall  Field  Company  —  The  Store  for  Men 


"Dress  yourself  fine  where 
others  are  fine;  plain  where 
others  are  plain;  but  take  care 
always  that  your  clothes  are 
well  made  and  fit  you.” 

— Lord  Chesterfield’s  Letter 
to  his  Son,  1748. 


‘‘Dress  does  make  a  differ¬ 
ence,  Davy.” 

-  Bob  Acres  in  “The 
Rivals,”  1778. 


.1  certain  tilt  to  the  coat-skirts 
marked  the  dandy,  just  as  the 
swing  of  the  hoop  told  the 
belle. 


“For  the  apparel  oft  pro¬ 
claims  the  man.” 

—  Polonius’ speech  to  his  son 


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